植えたばかりの木を風から守る日本の樹木支柱には、鳥居・八ツ掛・布掛・合掌・やぐら・生垣支柱などの形があります。自治体の仕様書や、国の研究機関の手引きをもとに、種類と選び方、設置の仕方、竹・杉丸太・しゅろ縄の結び方、外す時期までを樹木医が解説します。
公園や街路、マンションの植え込みで、若い木の幹に丸太や竹が組まれているのを見かけたことがあると思います。樹木支柱です。行政が公園や道路に木を植えるときは、どの大きさの木にどの支柱を使い、どう組むかが標準図で決められています。今回、支柱の種類と組み方、その形に残る手仕事、外す時期について書きます。イラストは当社で描きました。後半に英語の全文を載せています。
支柱は何のためにあるのか──根を動かさないための「仮設物」
支柱というと「木が倒れないように」と思われがちですが、いちばんの役目は根を守ることです。国土技術政策総合研究所(国総研)の「街路樹の倒伏対策の手引き 第2版」(2019年)は、支柱を、植えた木を倒さないことと、風で大きく揺れて根鉢と植栽基盤の間にすき間ができたり、出てきた細い根が切れたりしないようにして、根の伸長を促すために設けるもの、と説明しています。
植えたばかりの木は、根鉢(掘り取ったときの根と土のかたまり)ごと植えられただけで、まだ周りの土に根を張っていません。幹が揺れれば、根鉢も揺れます。伸び始めた細い根が、揺れるたびに切れてしまう。支柱はそれを止めるためのものです。同じ手引きは、支柱を「基本的には樹木が活着して根系を十分に伸長させ樹体を支持することができるまでの仮設物」としています。

木の大きさで選ぶ──標準図の「適用区分」
どの支柱を使うかは、木の大きさで決まります。標準図では、木の大きさを樹高と幹周(幹の周りの長さ)で分け、それぞれに合う支柱の形と寸法を決めています。幹周と樹高ごとに使う支柱を示しています。
主な支柱について、横浜市、鳥取県、国総研の手引きの「支柱の適用条件の例」を並べると、次のようになります。
| 支柱 | 横浜市の標準図 | 鳥取県(公園・高木) | 国総研の目安 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 二脚鳥居 | 幹周9〜20cm、20〜40cmは丸太を太くする | 添木付きは幹周30cm未満、添木なしは20〜30cm | 幹周12〜20cm |
| 三脚鳥居 | − | 幹周30〜60cm | 幹周20〜40cm |
| 十字鳥居 | − | 幹周30〜60cm | 幹周30〜120cm |
| 四脚(二脚鳥居の組合せ) | − | 幹周40〜75cm | 幹周40〜120cm |
| 合掌 | 幹周40〜70cm | − | − |
| やぐら | 幹周70〜120cm | − | − |
| 八ツ掛(竹) | 幹周9〜15cm | 幹周20cm未満 | 幹周9〜20cm |
| 八ツ掛(丸太) | 樹高2.5〜7m(幹周9〜90cm) | 長さ4mは幹周20〜30cm、6〜7mは30〜75cm | 幹周20〜90cm |
同じ大きさの木でも、使う形は発注者によって少しずつ違います。鳥取県の表では、道路に植える場合は十字鳥居を幹周75cm以上まで使い、長さ4mの丸太の八ツ掛を幹周50cm未満まで使うなど、公園とは範囲が変わります。樹高1〜3mの中木には、二脚鳥居(添木付き)のほか、竹の八ツ掛、幹に竹を1本沿わせる添柱型、竹の布掛、生垣支柱が並びます。現場では、その工事の発注者の標準図に従います。
国総研の手引きは、沿岸部や風の当たる場所など強い風を受けやすい所では、一般的な規格より1段階上の支柱を入れることを検討するよう書いています。表の数字は、あくまで標準の条件での目安です。
種類ごとの組み方と、設置の仕方
ここからは、主な支柱の組み方を図で見ていきます。どの図も、正面から見た形に、右上に上から見た形(平面図)を添えています。地面の下に入る部分も、尖った先まで描いています。
二脚鳥居支柱──狭い植栽地に向く、簡素な形
杉丸太2本を幹の両側に立て、上に横木を渡して幹と結ぶ形です。神社の鳥居に似た形からこの名があり、国総研の「沖縄における都市緑化樹木の台風被害対策の手引き」(2011年)は、鳥居型を「切丸太を鳥居の形に組み合わせ」たものと説明し、形が簡素なので植栽地の面積が狭い場所に向くとしています。
添木付きでは、長さ1.8mの杉丸太2本を地中に打ち込み、その上に長さ0.6mの横木を地上0.95mの高さで渡して、釘を打ち鉄線を綾に掛けて留めます。横木と幹は杉皮を巻いてしゅろ縄で結びます。添木には長さ4.0mの杉梢丸太(細い杉の丸太)を使い、幹に沿わせて樹冠の中まで伸ばし、横木の高さと高い位置で結びます。

八ツ掛支柱──竹か丸太を三方向から
3本の竹や丸太を、上から見て三方向から斜めに立てかけ、幹と結ぶ形が八ツ掛支柱です。幹と結ぶ高さは、樹高の3分の2。3本は幹の脇を通って互いに交差し、上端は交差した所より少し上へ出ます。幹と交わる所は杉皮を巻いてしゅろ縄で結び、竹どうし・丸太どうしは鉄線で留めます。
根元の留め方が、この支柱の要です。竹の場合は、短い竹(根かせ)を斜めに打ち込んで支柱の竹とX字に交差させ、のこぎり目を入れて鉄線で留めます。丸太の場合は、長さ0.6mの杉丸太の杭を打って交差させ、釘を打って鉄線を割掛けにします。当社の現場では、杭を地際で支柱と交差させ、交差した所が地上に見えるように留めています。足元が滑らず、点検のときに緩みも確かめやすくなります。
真竹三本支柱は幹周9〜15cmの木に。杉丸太三本支柱は、樹高2.5mから7.0m未満まで、木の大きさに応じて丸太の長さ(3.0〜5.5m)と太さを10段階に分け、大きな木では丸太を幹だけでなく太い枝にも結びます。沖縄の手引きは、八ツ掛を枝張りの大きい木に向き、植栽地の面積が広い場所に適すると説明しています。


やぐら支柱──大木を受け止める骨組み
幹周70cm以上120cm未満の大きな木にやぐら支柱を使います。四方から長さ3.8mの丸太を立て、上端は地上約3.2mで幹を挟む小さな井の字の枠に留めます。地上約1.6mの高さには、長さ1.8mの丸太で四角い枠を組んで4本の脚をつなぎ、脚は途中で太い枝とも結びます。物見やぐらのような骨組みで、大木を移植したときに見かける形です。

布掛支柱──並んだ木どうしで支え合う
一列に植えた木を、横に渡した1本の竹でつなぐ形が布掛支柱です。樹高1.5〜3.0mの木の列に真竹を通し、左端は外側へV字に開く2本の竹、右端は列と直角の向きの2本の竹で控えています。横竹を樹高の3分の2の高さに通しています。並んだ木どうしが支え合うので、列植に使われます。「布」は、足場などで横に渡す材を指す言葉です。

生垣支柱──竹垣にも似た骨組み
生垣にする苗木の列には、杉丸太の柱に真竹(胴縁)を上下2段に渡し、苗木を1本ずつ杉皮としゅろ縄で結ぶ生垣支柱を使います。柱を2mおきに立て、胴縁を釘で留め、高さは1.3m内外。植える本数は、1mあたり2〜3本です。

このほか、幼木には竹を1本斜めに挿して結ぶ一本支柱や、竹を幹に沿わせて立てる添柱型があります。
竹・杉丸太・杉皮・しゅろ縄──材料と結び方に残る手仕事
材料は今も自然のものが基本です。真竹は末口(細い方の端)2.5cm内外で「先端節止め」、杉丸太は「無処理品」。杉丸太を杉か檜とし、防腐加工(焼きは除く)したものとしています。同じ杉丸太でも、仕様は発注者によって違います。
幹と支柱が交わる所には杉皮を巻き、しゅろ縄で結びます。横浜市の標準図では、しゅろ縄は「赤色(無着色)」の径3mmを2本合わせにして、「あや割掛け3回巻き以上」。丸太どうしは釘で留め、亜鉛めっき鉄線#18を同じく割掛けに巻きます。東京都建設局の「街路樹等維持標準仕様書(緑地管理編)」(平成25年4月)は、杉皮を巻いてしゅろ縄で「緩みのないように割り縄がけ」に結ぶこと、八ツ掛・布掛は風向・土質・樹形を考えて「適正な角度で見栄えよく堅固に」取り付けること、控木の先端は「見栄えよく切り詰める」ことを求めています。行政の仕様書に「見栄えよく」と二度書かれている。支柱は木と一緒に街の景色の一部になる、という考えが、仕様の中にあります。沖縄の手引きも、支柱は樹木とともに景観を構成する要素なので、同系統の材質や色調の材料を選ぶのが望ましいとしています。

図面に書かれているのは寸法と材料までです。現場での経験から言うと、結束のよしあしは、縄を巻いた回数よりも、巻きのそろい方と締め加減に出ます。締めすぎれば幹を傷め、緩ければ木が揺れて根が切れる。竹の頭を節の上でそろえ、丸太の頭を同じ高さで切りそろえる。仕上がりの線がそろった支柱は、遠目にもすっきり見えます。職人の間では、支柱の出来で植木屋の腕がわかる、と言われることもあります。
当社が管理をお任せいただいている江戸川区・寿昌院様の「臥竜の松」では、2023年に支柱を改修しました。枝どうしを横につないでいた丸太や竹の横木をなくして、枝の下から斜めに支える頬杖支柱で補強し、劣化した丸太を防腐剤(タナリス)処理の焼き丸太に替えています。丸太と竹は棕櫚縄で細かく結束し、3年前後で劣化する竹は随時交換しています。支柱を減らすほど、松らしい枝ぶりが見えてきました。
支柱の歴史──行政の標準図に受け継がれた形と、新しい支柱
竹と杉丸太としゅろ縄で木を支える方法が、いつ、どこで始まったのか。調べてみましたが、支柱の起源をはっきり示す資料は、見つけられませんでした。
確かめられるのは、近年の行政の基準の流れです。横浜市のサイトには、公園緑地施設標準図集の過去の版が平成11年4月版から公開されていて、平成14年、17年、21年、25年、30年と版を重ね、いまは平成30年4月版を部分改定しながら使っています。東京都も、それぞれの標準図や仕様書で支柱の形と結び方を定めています。国総研の手引きは、支柱は竹や木材を用いたものが基本で最も多く使われているとしたうえで、景観や通行への配慮から鋼管などを使う鋼製型支柱や、根鉢を地中で固定する地下型支柱を挙げています。地下型は、成長した根が固定具に食い込まないよう、結束材が分解性であることを確かめる、とも書いています。
名木・老木には、植えたときの仮設とは別の、恒久的な支柱もあります。国総研の手引きは、強い風を常に受ける木や、植栽基盤が狭く根が十分に伸びない木には恒久的な支柱が必要としています。寿昌院様の臥竜の松は推定樹齢500年以上と言われ、大正年間の大風で幹が折れ、いまの這うような姿になった松です。こうした木では、支柱は木の姿を支え続ける道具になります。海外では、裂けそうな枝をロープで互いに結ぶケーブリング(樹冠固定)も広く使われていて、当社でも施工しています。
外す時期と結束直し──支柱が木を傷めないために
仮設物である以上、外す時期があります。国総研の手引きは、植栽時の支柱の撤去の目安を3〜5年程度とし、木製の支柱が老朽化したり、幹への食い込みが始まると考えられる時点(5年程度経過以降)を目安に挙げています。活着後も残しておくと、食い込みで木を傷めたり、腐った支柱そのものが危険物になる、とも書いています。
横浜市道路局の「街路樹維持業務委託共通仕様書」(令和8年2月)は、結束直しの目的を、幹が太るにつれて結束部がくびれて折れやすくなるのを防ぐこと、しゅろ縄などの腐朽で失われた支柱の機能を回復すること、としています。撤去は、支柱を根元から完全に引き抜き、しゅろ縄や鉄線などの結束材も取り除き、穴を埋め戻して整地します。

樹木診断の現場でも、支柱の縄が食い込んで幹がくびれた木を見ることがあります。支柱は、立てたときより、何年か後の点検のほうが大事なのかもしれません。
支柱は、木が自分の根で立つまでの数年を預かる道具です。立てるときは見栄えよく堅固に、役目を終えたら木を傷める前に外す。その両方がそろって、支柱の仕事は終わると考えています。支柱の点検・結束直し・撤去のご相談は、info@toshilandscape.co.jp か、お問い合わせのページから承っています。
よくある質問(Q&A)
Q1. 樹木の支柱はいつ外せばいいですか?
A. 植えたときの支柱は、植栽後3〜5年程度が撤去の目安です。国総研の「街路樹の倒伏対策の手引き 第2版」は、木製の支柱が老朽化したり幹への食い込みが始まると考えられる時点(5年程度経過以降)を目安に挙げています。ただし、強い風を常に受ける木や、植栽基盤が狭く根が十分に伸びない木には、恒久的な支柱が必要です。
Q2. 樹木の支柱にはどんな種類がありますか?
A. 杉丸太2本と横木で支える二脚鳥居支柱、脚を増やした三脚鳥居・十字鳥居・四脚の支柱、3本の竹や丸太を三方向から立てかける八ツ掛支柱、列に植えた木を横竹でつなぐ布掛支柱、四方から丸太を寄せる合掌支柱、大木を枠と丸太で支えるやぐら支柱、生垣の苗木を2段の竹に結ぶ生垣支柱、幼木用の一本支柱や添柱型などがあります。このほか、鋼製型・地下型・ワイヤー型の支柱もあります。
Q3. 木の大きさで支柱はどう選びますか?
A. 標準図では、樹高と幹周で木の大きさを分け、それぞれに使う支柱を決めています。たとえば鳥取県の表では、公園の高木で幹周30cm未満は二脚鳥居(添木付き)、30〜60cmは三脚鳥居や十字鳥居です。同じ大きさの木でも、使う形は発注者ごとに違うので、現場ではその工事の発注者の標準図に従います。強い風を受けやすい場所では、1段階上の規格を検討します。
Q4. 支柱の縄が幹に食い込んでいたらどうすればいいですか?
A. 結束直しをするか、支柱が要らなくなっていれば撤去します。横浜市の街路樹維持業務委託共通仕様書は、幹が太るにつれて結束部がくびれて折れやすくなるのを防ぐために結束直しを行うとし、杉皮やしゅろ縄は新しいものを使うと定めています。撤去するときは、結束材も残さず取り除きます。
Q5. 支柱の結束に杉皮としゅろ縄を使うのはなぜですか?
A. 幹と支柱が交わる所に杉皮を巻いて樹皮を守り、その上からしゅろ縄で緩みのないように結ぶのが、東京都や横浜市の仕様です。沖縄の手引きは、支柱は景観を構成する要素なので、同系統の材質や色調の材料を選ぶのが望ましいとしています。杉皮やしゅろ縄は劣化するので、交換の時期の目安を決めておく必要があります。
出典・参考情報
- 横浜市みどり環境局「公園緑地施設標準図集」2 植栽・S2 参考図(平成30年4月版、令和6年4月部分改定)。過去の版(平成11年4月版〜)も同じページに掲載
- 鳥取県「植樹用支柱」(第7章 植栽工 7-1〜7-7。適用区分、各支柱の背面図・側面図・平面図、材料表)
- 国土技術政策総合研究所「街路樹の倒伏対策の手引き 第2版」国総研資料第1059号(2019年2月)p.1-61〜1-64(表-2.9 支柱の適用条件の例)、1-87〜1-89
- 国土技術政策総合研究所「沖縄における都市緑化樹木の台風被害対策の手引き」国総研資料第621号(2011年)1.5 支柱
- 東京都建設局公園緑地部「街路樹等維持標準仕様書(緑地管理編)」(平成25年4月)2-2-10 支柱撤去、2-2-11 支柱設置
- 横浜市道路局「街路樹維持業務委託共通仕様書」(令和8年2月)第8章 支柱補修等(第55〜58条)
- 「労働安全衛生規則」第569条(丸太足場)
関連記事
- 寿昌院様 臥竜の松 支柱改修プロジェクト
- 寿昌院 臥竜の松 池の中の支柱を丸太二本の仕様に交換 江戸川区登録天然記念物
- 【江戸川区・寿昌院】200年の時を超える「臥竜の松」 古地図と地名が語る土地の記憶
- 台風倒木のカキノキ 支柱復旧作業
- 高木樹木へのケーブリング支柱 東京都目黒区
- 透かし剪定とは──日本の庭師が「抜いて整える」剪定の考え方
- 松の「もみあげ」とは──古い葉を手でむしる冬の手入れ
株式会社トシ・ランドスケープ
樹木医 中村雅俊
English: Japanese Tree Staking — Torii, Yatsugake, Nunokake and Yagura, Built by Hand from Bamboo, Cedar Poles and Palm-Fibre Rope
Japanese tree stakes protect newly planted trees from the wind, and they come in several forms: torii, yatsugake, nunokake, gassho, yagura and hedge stakes. Drawing on the standard drawings of the City of Yokohama and Tottori Prefecture and the guidelines of Japan’s national research institute, this article explains the types and how they are chosen, how they are installed, how bamboo, cedar poles and shuro (palm-fibre) rope are tied, and when the stakes should come off.
Anyone who has walked through a park, along a street or past the planting beds of an apartment complex in Japan has probably seen young trees braced with poles and bamboo. These are tree stakes, called shichū. When local governments plant trees in parks and along roads, their standard drawings set out which stake to use for which size of tree and how to assemble it. Using the City of Yokohama’s Standard Drawings for Park and Green Space Facilities and Tottori Prefecture’s tree stake drawings as a guide, I will describe the types of stakes and how they are put together, the handwork that survives in their form, and when to remove them. The illustrations were drawn by our company.
What stakes are for: a temporary structure that keeps the roots still
People tend to think stakes are there to stop a tree from falling over, but their main job is to protect the roots. The Manual of Countermeasures for Tree Failure of Street Trees, 2nd edition (2019) from the National Institute for Land and Infrastructure Management (NILIM) explains that stakes are installed to keep a newly planted tree from falling, and to prevent strong swaying in the wind from opening gaps between the root ball and the planting soil or breaking the fine new roots, so that root growth is encouraged.
A freshly planted tree has simply been set into the ground with its root ball (the mass of roots and soil lifted with it) and has not yet rooted into the surrounding soil. When the trunk moves, the root ball moves too, and the fine roots that have just begun to grow snap with every sway. The stake is there to stop that. The same manual describes stakes as, in principle, a temporary structure that stays only until the tree has established and extended its roots enough to support itself.

Choosing by tree size: the “application tables” in the standard drawings
Which stake to use depends on the size of the tree. Standard drawings classify trees by height and trunk girth and set the form and dimensions of the stake for each class. Tottori Prefecture’s drawings open with an application table that separates planting in parks from planting along roads and shows the stake to use for each girth and height.
For the main stakes, Yokohama’s drawings, Tottori’s table (parks, tall trees of 3 m or more) and the “examples of application conditions” in NILIM’s manual compare as follows.
| Stake | Yokohama | Tottori (parks, tall trees) | NILIM guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Two-leg torii | Girth 9–20 cm; thicker poles for 20–40 cm | With splint: girth under 30 cm; without: 20–30 cm | Girth 12–20 cm |
| Three-leg torii | – | Girth 30–60 cm | Girth 20–40 cm |
| Cross torii | – | Girth 30–60 cm | Girth 30–120 cm |
| Four-leg (two torii combined) | – | Girth 40–75 cm | Girth 40–120 cm |
| Gassho | Girth 40–70 cm | – | – |
| Yagura | Girth 70–120 cm | – | – |
| Yatsugake (bamboo) | Girth 9–15 cm | Girth under 20 cm | Girth 9–20 cm |
| Yatsugake (cedar poles) | Height 2.5–7 m (girth 9–90 cm) | 4 m poles: girth 20–30 cm; 6–7 m poles: 30–75 cm | Girth 20–90 cm |
Even for the same size of tree, the form used differs slightly from one client to another. In Tottori’s table, for trees planted along roads the cross torii is used up to girths of 75 cm and more, and the 4 m cedar yatsugake up to girths under 50 cm, so the ranges differ from those for parks. For medium trees 1 to 3 m tall, the table lists the two-leg torii with splint, the bamboo yatsugake, the soebashira type (a single bamboo set along the trunk), the bamboo nunokake and the hedge stake. On site, we follow the standard drawings of the client for that job.
NILIM’s manual advises considering a stake one grade above the usual specification where trees are exposed to strong winds, such as on the coast or on windswept sites. The figures in the table are guides for standard conditions.
How each type is assembled and installed
From here, the main stakes are shown in drawings. Each illustration shows the stake from the front, with a plan view in the top right. The parts that go into the ground are drawn down to their pointed tips.
Two-leg torii stake: a simple form for narrow planting spaces
Two cedar poles stand on either side of the trunk, with a crossbar across the top tied to the trunk. The name comes from its resemblance to a shrine gate (torii). NILIM’s Guidelines for Typhoon Damage Countermeasures for Urban Greening Trees in Okinawa (2011) describes the torii type as cut poles assembled in the shape of a torii, and notes that its simple form suits sites with little planting area.
In Tottori’s drawing (with splint), two 1.8 m cedar poles are driven into the ground, and a 0.6 m crossbar is set across their tops 0.95 m above the ground, nailed and bound crosswise with wire. The crossbar is tied to the trunk with cedar bark and shuro rope. The splint is a slender cedar top-pole 4.0 m long that runs along the trunk up into the crown and is tied at the crossbar and at a higher point. Yokohama’s drawings also show a torii stake of 1.5 m cedar poles (TS-S) and a version with a bamboo splint (TS-SM).

Gassho stake: legs leaning in from four sides
Yokohama’s drawings use the gassho stake (GS) for trees with a girth of 40 cm to under 70 cm. Four short cedar poles, about 60 cm long, are assembled in a 井 (hash) shape that clasps the trunk from four sides, and four long cedar poles lean in diagonally from four directions to its corners, where they are nailed and wired. The tops of the legs project a little above the frame. The legs lean towards the trunk like hands pressed together in prayer (gasshō).

Yatsugake stake: bamboo or poles from three directions
The yatsugake stake leans three bamboo canes or poles in from three directions, seen from above, and ties them to the trunk. The tie height is 60% of the tree’s height in Yokohama’s drawings and two-thirds in Tottori’s. The three pass beside the trunk and cross each other, with their tops projecting a little above the crossing. Where they meet the trunk they are tied with cedar bark and shuro rope; canes and poles are fixed to each other with wire.
The way the feet are held is the key to this stake. For bamboo, a short piece of bamboo (negase) is driven in at an angle to cross the cane in an X, and is fixed with wire in a saw cut. For cedar poles, Tottori’s drawing has a 0.6 m cedar stake driven in to cross each pole, nailed and bound crosswise with wire. On our sites, the stake crosses the pole at ground level, and the crossing is fixed where it can be seen above ground. The foot does not slip, and loosening is easy to check at inspection.
Yokohama’s three-cane madake stake (MD-3L) is for trees with a girth of 9 to 15 cm. The three-pole cedar stake covers trees from 2.5 m to under 7.0 m tall, in ten grades of pole length (3.0 to 5.5 m) and thickness, and on larger trees the poles are tied not only to the trunk but also to main branches. The Okinawa guidelines say the yatsugake suits trees with a wide crown and sites with a large planting area.


Yagura stake: a framework that holds a large tree
Yokohama’s drawings use the yagura stake (YS) for large trees with a girth of 70 cm to under 120 cm. 3.8 m poles rise from four directions, and their tops are fixed about 3.2 m up to a small hash-shaped frame that clasps the trunk. About 1.6 m above the ground, a square frame of 1.8 m poles links the four legs, and the legs are also tied to main branches on the way up. It looks like the frame of a wooden watchtower (yagura) and is the form you see when a large tree has been transplanted.

Nunokake stake: trees in a row holding each other up
The nunokake stake links a row of trees with a single horizontal bamboo rail. In Yokohama’s reference drawings (MD-NS, MD-NL), a madake bamboo rail runs through a row of trees 1.5 to 3.0 m tall; the left end is braced by two canes splayed outward in a V, and the right end by two canes set at right angles to the row. Tottori’s drawing also runs the rail at two-thirds of the tree’s height. Because the trees in the row support one another, this stake is used for row planting. Nuno is the word for a horizontal member in scaffolding; it appears, for example, in the article on log scaffolding (Article 569) of Japan’s Ordinance on Industrial Safety and Health.

Hedge stake: a frame that resembles a bamboo fence
For a row of young hedge plants, the hedge stake sets two rails of madake bamboo, one above the other, on cedar posts, and each plant is tied to them with cedar bark and shuro rope. In Tottori’s drawing the posts stand every 2 m, the rails are nailed on, and the height is about 1.3 m. Both Yokohama and Tottori specify two to three plants per metre.

There is also a single-cane stake for young trees (Yokohama MD-1, 0.8 to 1.5 m tall), in which one bamboo cane is pushed in at an angle and tied, and the soebashira type in Tottori’s drawings, in which a cane is set along the trunk. NILIM’s manual also lists a wire type that guys the tree from three to five directions, and steel and underground types used where appearance or pedestrian traffic matters.
Bamboo, cedar poles, cedar bark and shuro rope: handwork in the materials and the ties
The notes on the drawings show that the materials are still, in principle, natural ones. In Yokohama’s drawings, madake bamboo is about 2.5 cm at the narrow end, “cut at a node at the tip”, and cedar poles are “untreated”. Tottori’s drawings specify cedar or hinoki cypress poles with preservative treatment (charring excluded). Even for the same cedar pole, the specification differs from one client to another.
Where the trunk meets the stake, it is wrapped in cedar bark and tied with shuro rope (palm-fibre rope). In Yokohama’s drawings the rope is “red (undyed)”, 3 mm in diameter, used doubled, in a crossed “aya-warikake” tie of at least three turns, and poles are joined with nails and wrapped crosswise in the same way with No. 18 galvanised wire. The Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s Standard Specifications for Street Tree Maintenance (Green Space Management, April 2013) require the trunk to be wrapped in cedar bark and tied with shuro rope “crosswise, with no slack”; yatsugake and nunokake stakes to be fitted “at a proper angle, neatly and firmly”, taking wind direction, soil and tree form into account; and the tips of the poles to be “trimmed neatly”. A government specification asks twice for the work to look good. The idea that a stake becomes part of the streetscape along with the tree is written into the specification itself. The Okinawa guidelines say the same: stakes form part of the landscape together with the tree, so materials of a consistent type and colour are preferable.

The drawings give dimensions and materials, and stop there. In my experience on site, the quality of a tie shows less in the number of turns than in how evenly they lie and how firmly they are pulled. Too tight and the trunk is damaged; too loose and the tree sways and the roots break. The tops of the canes are cut just above a node, all level; the tops of the poles are trimmed to the same height. A stake whose finished lines are even looks clean even from a distance. Among craftsmen it is sometimes said that you can judge a gardener’s skill by his stakes.
At Jushoin, a temple in Edogawa, Tokyo, where we care for the pine known as Garyu-no-Matsu (the “reclining dragon pine”), we renovated the stakes in 2023. We removed the horizontal poles and bamboo that had linked branch to branch, reinforced the branches instead with hōzue props that brace each branch diagonally from below, and replaced deteriorated poles with charred poles treated with preservative (Tanalith). Poles and bamboo were bound closely with shuro rope, and the bamboo, which deteriorates in about three years, is replaced as needed. The fewer stakes there were, the more the pine’s own branch structure came into view.
A history of stakes: forms passed down in government drawings, and new types
When and where did the practice of holding up trees with bamboo, cedar poles and shuro rope begin? I looked into it, but this time I could not find a primary source that clearly shows the origin of tree staking. What I do not know, I will leave as unknown.
What can be confirmed is how recent government standards have developed. Yokohama’s website publishes past editions of its Standard Drawings from the April 1999 edition onward, revised in 2002, 2005, 2009, 2013 and 2018; the April 2018 edition is still in use with partial revisions. Tottori Prefecture and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government also set out the forms and ties of stakes in their own drawings and specifications. NILIM’s manual states that stakes using bamboo or timber are the basic and most widely used type, and then lists steel stakes using steel pipe and underground stakes that anchor the root ball below ground, for sites where appearance or pedestrian traffic matters. For underground stakes, it adds that the tying material should be confirmed to be degradable so that growing roots do not become girdled by the fixings.
Famous and old trees may also have permanent supports, separate from the temporary stakes used at planting. NILIM’s manual says permanent stakes are needed for trees that are constantly exposed to strong winds, or that grow in small planting bases where the roots cannot extend enough. The Garyu-no-Matsu at Jushoin is said to be more than 500 years old; its trunk broke in a great wind in the Taisho era (1912–1926), leaving the low, creeping form it has today. For a tree like this, the stakes become a tool that goes on supporting its form. Abroad, cabling (crown securing), in which branches at risk of splitting are tied to each other with rope, is also widely used, and we install it as well.
When to remove stakes, and re-tying: so that stakes do not harm the tree
Because stakes are temporary, there is a time to take them off. NILIM’s manual gives roughly three to five years after planting as the guide for removal, pointing to the time when wooden stakes are deteriorating or when they are likely to begin cutting into the trunk (from about five years on). It also warns that if stakes are left after the tree has established, they can girdle and damage the tree, and a rotten stake itself becomes a hazard.
The City of Yokohama Road Bureau’s Common Specifications for Street Tree Maintenance Contracts (February 2026) give the purposes of re-tying as preventing the tied part of the trunk from becoming constricted and prone to breaking as the trunk thickens, and restoring the function of a stake lost when shuro rope and other materials rot. For removal, the stake is pulled completely out from the base, all ties including shuro rope and wire are removed, and the hole is backfilled and levelled.

In tree assessment work, too, we sometimes come across trunks pinched where an old stake rope has cut into them. Perhaps the inspection a few years later matters more than the day the stake goes in.
A stake is a tool that holds a tree for the few years until it can stand on its own roots. Put it up neatly and firmly; when its work is done, take it off before it harms the tree. Only when both are done, I believe, is the job of staking finished. For inspection, re-tying or removal of tree stakes, please contact us at info@toshilandscape.co.jp or through our contact page.
Frequently asked questions
Q1. When should tree stakes be removed?
A. Stakes put in at planting are generally removed about three to five years after planting. NILIM’s Manual of Countermeasures for Tree Failure of Street Trees (2nd edition) points to the time when wooden stakes are deteriorating or are likely to begin cutting into the trunk (from about five years on). Trees constantly exposed to strong winds, or growing in small planting bases where the roots cannot extend enough, need permanent support.
Q2. What types of tree stakes are there in Japan?
A. The two-leg torii stake (two cedar poles and a crossbar), three-leg, cross and four-leg stakes with more legs, the yatsugake stake (three canes or poles from three directions), the nunokake stake (a horizontal bamboo rail linking a row of trees), the gassho stake (poles leaning in from four sides), the yagura stake (a frame and poles for large trees), the hedge stake (young hedge plants tied to two bamboo rails), and the single-cane and soebashira stakes for young trees, among others. There are also steel, underground and wire types.
Q3. How is a stake chosen for the size of the tree?
A. Standard drawings classify trees by height and trunk girth and set the stake for each class. In Tottori’s table, for example, tall trees in parks with a girth under 30 cm get a two-leg torii with splint, and those of 30 to 60 cm a three-leg or cross torii. Because the form used for the same size of tree differs from client to client, on site we follow the client’s standard drawings for that job. Where strong winds are likely, a stake one grade higher is considered.
Q4. What should be done if the stake rope is cutting into the trunk?
A. Re-tie it, or remove the stake if it is no longer needed. Yokohama’s specifications call for re-tying to prevent the tied part from becoming constricted and prone to breaking as the trunk thickens, using new cedar bark and shuro rope. When removing a stake, all the ties should be taken off as well.
Q5. Why are cedar bark and shuro rope used to tie stakes?
A. Tokyo’s and Yokohama’s specifications call for the trunk to be wrapped in cedar bark where it meets the stake, to protect the bark, and then tied with shuro rope with no slack. The Okinawa guidelines say that because stakes are part of the landscape, materials of a consistent type and colour are preferable. Cedar bark and shuro rope deteriorate, so a guide for when to replace them should be set.
Sources
- City of Yokohama, Green Environment Bureau. Standard Drawings for Park and Green Space Facilities, Chapter 2 Planting and S2 Reference Drawings (April 2018 edition, partially revised April 2024). Past editions from April 1999 are on the same page. (Japanese)
- Tottori Prefecture. Tree Stakes for Planting, Chapter 7 Planting Work, 7-1 to 7-7 (application table, rear, side and plan views of each stake, materials table). (Japanese)
- National Institute for Land and Infrastructure Management. Manual of the Countermeasures for Tree Failure of Street Trees, 2nd edition. Technical Note No. 1059, February 2019, pp. 1-61 to 1-64 (Table 2.9, examples of application conditions for stakes), 1-87 to 1-89. (Japanese)
- National Institute for Land and Infrastructure Management. Guidelines for Typhoon Damage Countermeasures for Urban Greening Trees in Okinawa. Technical Note No. 621, 2011, section 1.5 Stakes. (Japanese)
- Tokyo Metropolitan Government Bureau of Construction. Standard Specifications for Street Tree Maintenance (Green Space Management), April 2013, sections 2-2-10 and 2-2-11. (Japanese)
- City of Yokohama Road Bureau. Common Specifications for Street Tree Maintenance Contracts, February 2026, Chapter 8, Articles 55–58. (Japanese)
- Ordinance on Industrial Safety and Health, Article 569 (log scaffolding). (Japanese)
Masatoshi Nakamura
Jumokui (Tree Doctor), Toshi Landscape Co., Ltd., Tokyo












